Delving into the Mayan Underworld

It’s hard to say what has been my favorite place to visit in my travels, but when someone asks me, I always mention the Cayo District in Belize. I stayed at a well-run lodge in the jungle, fed toucans, ate great food and met incredible people. But it was the adventure of visiting Actun Tunichil Maknal (aka ATM or the Cave of the Stone Tomb) that sticks with me the most.

The three-mile-long cave, located in the Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve, has become an underground Mayan museum of sorts that requires hiking and spelunking through waist-high water to reach. The Mayans used the cave for ceremonial purposes and offerings to the underworld Gods are scattered around the cave. All the artifacts in the cave have been left where the archaeologists found them, which offers a unique perspective — and lots of adventure — for anyone wanting to visit.

Since my visit in 2000, at least two of my friends have gone based on my recommendation. One of my frequent travel companions visited the cave this week. Unfortunately, she couldn’t take photos “due to the fact that stupid tourists kept on dropping their cameras on artifacts, including one of the skulls,” she reports. “Cameras are strictly prohibited on ATM tours.”

That got me digging into the archives to find these photos taken in 2000 when I was there.

Our guide called this the “Tree of Life” and it marks the beginning of a 45-minute hike to the cave.

HIking to the entrance of Actun Tunichil Maknal.

The entrance to Actun Tunichil Maknal.

The first challenge is swimming into the cave. Now we’re off into the depths.

After squeezing through tight spaces, we remove our shoes, climb a steep cliff and find ourselves in “The Cathedral,” a large open space with stalgmites and stalagtites.

The Mayans would sacrifice their people to the underworld gods.

We hiked up a rickety wooden ladder to reach “The Crystal Maiden” aka “The Princess.” Archaeologists concluded that she was hit over the head and left to die, but she woke up and tried to find her way out of the cave in the darkness. Instead, she lost her footing and fell to her death in this spot.

The Boot Pot was intended for sacrificing babies. Petroglyphs in the cave show this being done. Pots are usually broken into pieces to release the spirits, but this one of the few that are intact.

Most lodges will arrange tours to Actun Tunichil Muknal. I went with Mayawalk Tours, one of the original tour companies to offer the caving adventure.