Tips for getting by on less in Zürich
Swiss bank accounts, chocolate, timepieces and army knifes. I’m swooning at the quality goods and services that this small country produces. Somehow, within two hours of landing in Zürich, Switzerland, $100 (roughly 87 Swiss Francs) slips effortlessly out of my wallet, but it wasn’t because of a shopping spree.
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ZURICH’S COST OF LIVING
Loaf of white bread:
* Today: $6.08
* 5 years ago: $5.52
Bottle of table wine:
* Today: $16.74
* 5 years ago: $11.34
1 liter unleaded petrol:
* Today: $2.01
* 5 years ago: $1.47
Source: Economist
Intelligence Unit
[/dropshadowbox]It came as no surprise. I already knew about the city’s reputation. Last year, Zürich earned the distinction of being the most expensive city in the world, based on cost-of-living data gathered by The Economist. Although Zurich dropped to number seven in the rankings this year, most visitors will still have sticker shock.
My budget already blown for the day, I decide to experience Zürich two ways in two days. I would continue the first 24 hours with no budgetary constraints other than my personal standard of reasonable spending. The next day, I would do everything on the cheap.
It turns out, you can get by with very little money in town and still feel enriched by the visit. Here are some tips for getting by on less in Zürich:
TRANSPORTATION
Taxis can range anyway from 60 to 80 CHF from the airport, while the hotel bus option costs 22 CHF and drops you at your hotel entrance. To get around town, buy a day pass (8.40CHF) for the tram. Tram service is quick, efficient and reliable. In one test, my husband spent 25 CHF for a taxi, while I took a tram to the same place. I arrived 15 minutes ahead of him.
Biking is another option for low-cost touring in the city. Zurirollt offers free bike (and skateboard) rentals from its five locations around the city. Show your identification, deposit 20 CHF and you’ll be on a roll.
FOOD
On the higher end of the spectrum, I lunched at Kronenhalle, a famous traditional eatery that first opened in 1862. I skipped the smoked salmon and caviar for 160 CHF and choose the beef stroganov (63CHF) and an avocado a la vinaigrette as a starter (16CHF). Both are delicious and filling. The main courses are delivered tableside in cookware and transferred to warm plates. The restaurant has classic white-tablecloth service here and it’s worth a visit, but the check packs a hefty punch, especially if you add drinks.
Back in the day, Kronenhalle was a meeting place for musicians, actors, authors and artists, some of whom used to pay with their future masterpieces. Original works from Chagall, Picasso and Miró adorn the walls and I contemplate asking if they’ll take an original photograph of my own in exchange for the meal. Instead, I hand them a genuine Master Card.
Cheap eats can be had, too, says Christoph Marthaler, concierge at the Renaissance Zürich Tower Hotel. “Migros has a great self-service buffet and specials for around 10 Swiss Francs,” he says. The retail chain’s name in French literally means the prices are halfway between retail and wholesale. The Migros buffet on Lowenstrasse (close to the main shopping street of Bahnhofstrasse) is on a fourth-story rooftop with terraces, which means it has an inexpensive meal with at least a thousand-dollar view.
If you want to keep to an even tighter budget, the Coop supermarket has fresh produce, regional cheeses and fresh-baked bread for packing a picnic lunch. While you’re there, you can pick up Swiss-made souvenirs, such as Lindt chocolate bars (starting at 1.50CHF) or Swiss army knifes (starting at 14 CHF).
ACTIVITIES
Cruising Lake Zürich is a great way to get a new perspective of the city. Ships ply the waters throughout the day with cruises that last from one to four hours (starting at 8.40CHF). If you have a day pass for the tram, though, you can take a riverboat cruise for free, Marthaler tells me. Public ferries stop at various points along both sides of the Limmat River and Lake Zürich, departing twice an hour from the main train station. A round trip will last up to 45 minutes, or hop on and off all day.
Shopping along the Bahnhofstrasse is a favorite pastime among visitors and locals. The numerous retail shops beckon with jewels gleaming under LED lights and mannequins decked out in high-end couture. You can experience the thrill of the hunt without the high price by window shopping your way down the street.
If the weather is nice, swimming in Lake Zürich is a great way to cool off. The city has one of the highest densities of swimming areas in the world and a huge social culture associated with it. Some public swim areas are free and other lake-front lidos charge a small fee for the use of changing areas, playgrounds and resort-style seating. Werdinsel, located on a island in the river (Tram #4 to Tuffenwies) provides lockers, toilets, a restaurant and grills for preparing your own food. Admission is free.
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